It was day one of a four day safari in the Masai Mara, in southern Kenya. The six tent Mara Porini Camp is the only accommodation in the Olkinyei Conservancy; staying in the 9,000 acre privately-leased wilderness means exclusive access to its rich diversity of wildlife.

It's far from the madding crowds that the National Reserve, a one hour drive, sometimes attracts.

The Masai Mara National Reserve and the nearby conservancies (the latter are owned by the local Masai people) is Kenya's Garden of Eden. The treasure trove of animals, found almost nowhere else on the continent, has also been called one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.

It was thrilling to fly with Safari Link away from Nairobi's urban sprawl, over the Rift Valley and towards the Mara. The pilot allowed me to sit in the cockpit, so I enjoyed a bird's eye view of the African landscape. I felt I was Meryl Streep in the movie Out of Africa. The youthful, eco-conscious airline daily flies tourists to most of Kenya's safari destinations.  

"The wildebeest is four animals in one - he's part grasshopper, hyena, ox and horse," said John, pointing to a herd of (normally) migrating animals, that number in the millions, which annually relocate from Tanzania to Kenya and back again. "They have no passport, so they're staying here," said John, joking. Most of the wildebeest that partake in that awesome migration were in Tanzania.

A traditional G & T sundowner on the plains, enjoyed by four tourists as the scarlet sun streamed across an African sky was the day's grand finale.

That night, however, lashing rains, not seen for several years, flooded the campsite. The following morning, it was like they'd never occurred – until we saw dead impalas and Thompson's Gazelles littering the plains during the game drive. Their corpses wouldn't remain for long, however: three types of vulture were already scavenging one victim while jackals patiently waited on the sidelines in the shade.

"I love these apartment buildings," said fellow passenger Peggy Stevens, referring to the odd-looking, termite "skyscraper" shaped mounds of clay. Flat topped acacia trees dotted the sparse, bush landscape. Their design enables them to gather more water, our guide explained.

Lion Porini Camp, a two hour drive away in the Olare Orok Conservancy which almost adjoins the Reserve, was our next stop. The tents zip open on all sides, leaving just netting for protection, while providing outside vistas. It created a feeling of oneness with the surrounding nature - including with the visiting hippos that nightly wandered between the sleeping tourists' tents!

A dawn safari balloon ride provided the opportunity of seeing Africa vertically, rather than horizontally. The almost silent flying mode enabled nature lovers to get just that bit closer to the animals below.

Although sightings of the Big Five proved disappointing, I observed the Masai moving their cattle out of the Reserve after a night's illegal grazing. Prolonged drought had forced the cattle owners to seek that grazing for their emaciated animals.

Chui Lodge, which means “place of peace,” is a 90 minute drive north of Nairobi. The out-of-this-world, six cottage lodge in Oserian Wildlife Sanctuary has handcrafted furniture, olive wood four-poster beds, wooden floors and welcoming roaring log fires for the cold nights.

The animals seem to visit the delighted guests as they breakfast or lunch, thanks to a waterhole that faces the dining lodge, on the other side of the electric fence. Giraffe, wart hogs, antelope and smaller creatures frequently visited it to top up on their liquids as the guests drank theirs. There was almost no need to go on the game drives, but I wanted to get up close and personal with the flamingoes that are famed throughout the region.

Early next morning, on the deserted, and as yet, undeveloped Lake Oloiden, I got the closest I'd ever been to thousands of these magnificent pink, black, long-limbed beauties.

Black-capped social weaver birds make false nests to deter enemies; a bird orchestra of nine different species sang a unique harmony one early morning and the lilac breasted roller bird, one of nature's most beautiful, is the proud possessor of six other colours besides.

The Samburu National Reserve is an ecological world away from the other safaris I'd enjoyed. The mountainous, northerly, landscape of iron clay is a bird lover's paradise: 300-plus bird species have been spotted. Samburu Intrepids, although much larger than the other camps I'd experienced, offer nature walks and nightly talks, cultural dances, star gazing, camel rides and a visit to a traditional Samburu village.

It also has the so called Samburu Special Five, including the Somali ostrich, reticulated giraffe, Gravy’s zebra, beisa Oryx and gerenuk, the giraffe antelope. They’re unique to Kenya’s northern region.  

A solo leopard turtle, complete with spotted shell, nonchalantly dined on hedge grass. Francis Lenyakopiro, our knowledgeable Masai guide, pointed out the "wait a bit" tree during a two hour nature walk. It catches peoples’ clothes as they pass by. Beautiful impala antelope horns lay on the sandy ground. Their locking ridges prevent the fighting males from seriously damaging each other, Francis explained, before demonstrating how a small cut branch from the "toothpick tree" is traditionally used for that and as toothbrushes by the local population.

Safari game drives, although wonderful, can be quite exhausting, and it was soon time to head to Kenya's coast.

Swimming, scuba diving, reading, imbibing a Tusker beer or two and watching the world pass can be enjoyed on Diani Beach. It's Kenya’s most popular coastal destination, with its white sands, turquoise waters, up market resorts, restaurants and shops.  

My beach homes away from homes included The Sands at Nomad (they have a variety of accommodations, including lovely sea-facing cottages) Flamboyant, a former private home of just 10 rooms and the very tasteful, African-themed décor of Afro Chic.

Butterfly fish feeding sideways, amazing leaf-like fish, ghost seaweed pipe fish that look like seaweed, jackfish busy cleaning a massive grouper and the cute box fish, with their box-like heads, were just some of the marine life observed during several days' diving in Kisite Marine National Park. Dive shops in Diani transport snorkellers and divers to Kenya's best marine park to experience some of its more than 350 fish species. The day  excursion, which includes two dives, lunch and a Wasani Island village visit is well worth it.  

Five dolphins swimming and playing beside four entranced divers was the highlight never experienced in more than two decades of diving.  


Getting There:
Dublin to Heathrow on British Midland. Kenya Airways flies daily from Heathrow to Nairobi. Prices start from €697.00, including taxes.
 
KLM offer flights from Belfast to Amsterdam to connect with the Kenya Airways two daily flights from Amsterdam to Nairobi.
www.kenya-airways.com .
Reservations 00 44 20 8283 1818

Flying to safaris in Kenya:
www.safarilink-kenya.com

Accommodation:
The Porini camps:
www.porinisafaricamps.com
Chui Lodge:
www.oserianwildlife.com
Sanburu Intrepids:
www.heritage-eastafrica.com
The Sands at Nomad:
www.thesandsatnomad.com
Flamboyant:  
www.dianibeachkenya.com
Afrochic:
www.elewana.com

Ballooning.
Adventures Aloft:
www.madahotels.com
Scuba Diving with Pilli Pipa, Paradise Divers and Charlie’s Claws:
www.pillipipa.com
www.dianibeach.com
www.wasiniislandkenya.com
Guide Book:  
Rough Guide to Kenya
www.roughguides.com